Bears, Glaciers & Whales: My Alaska Cruise Aboard Queen Elizabeth

Alaska had always been high on my bucket list. I’d imagined the vast landscapes, glaciers and incredible wildlife for years, so I did wonder whether somewhere I had built up so much in my mind could really live up to my expectations.

I needn’t have worried. Alaska delivered at every single point – and, in many ways, exceeded everything I had imagined.

I chose a 10-night Alaska cruise from Seattle aboard Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth, giving me plenty of time to explore the Alaskan coast and experience several very different ports along the way. We were also incredibly lucky with the weather, enjoying long, warm days and mild evenings, with only one drizzly day during the entire trip.

Wildlife was one of the biggest reasons I wanted to visit Alaska, so I booked several excursions through Cunard before travelling. Every one of them gave me an experience to remember.

Ketchikan: My First Alaskan Bear Encounter

After a day at sea, our first port of call was Ketchikan, where I had booked a bear-viewing excursion.

We travelled into the hills to an area where black bears live and feed in their natural habitat. Rather than entering an enclosure, you walk along raised platforms overlooking the woodland, meadow and stream where the bears come to fish for salmon. You have to remain quiet so that you don’t disturb them – after all, we were the visitors in their home.

Within minutes of entering the woodland, I saw my first black bear. He had recently caught his dinner and was sitting quite happily in the long grass eating his salmon.

As if that wasn’t enough, another bear appeared shortly afterwards and walked through the stream directly beneath the bridge I was standing on. I followed him along the viewing platform and watched as he went to work catching his lunch.

Seeing bears behaving completely naturally, with nothing separating their normal environment from us other than the raised viewing platform, was amazing. It is an experience I will remember for a very long time.

Juneau: Helicopter Flight, Norris Glacier and Husky Sledding

Our next stop was Juneau, where I’d booked one of the excursions I had been looking forward to most: a helicopter flight to Norris Glacier followed by a husky sled ride.

The flight itself was an experience. Looking down over snow-capped mountains, frozen glaciers and crystal-blue lakes was absolutely spectacular, and gave me a completely different perspective on Alaska’s landscape.

When we landed on the glacier, it was time to meet the huskies.

Being pulled across the snow in a traditional sled by a team of eight dogs was truly unforgettable. I also loved learning about the dogs themselves. They stay up on the glacier during the summer season, generally from around May until October, before returning to their owners for winter – so it’s almost like they go to dog camp for the summer!

This was one of the more expensive excursions I booked, but would I do it again? Without hesitation. It was worth every single penny.

Skagway: Stepping Back into the Gold Rush

We hadn’t booked an organised excursion in Skagway, so instead we spent some time exploring independently.

We’d heard about the Red Onion Saloon, which dates from Skagway’s Gold Rush era and was once one of the town’s most famous saloons and brothels. Today you can take a tour and learn some of the more colourful stories from its past.

One detail that stuck in my mind was the unusual system they once used to show which women were available. Dolls representing the women working upstairs were displayed behind the bar; when somebody was occupied, her doll would be laid down and returned upright afterwards.

It was a fascinating glimpse into the history of a town transformed by the Klondike Gold Rush.

There are plenty of other excursions available in Skagway too. One of the best known is the White Pass & Yukon Route railway, which climbs through the mountains and follows part of the route taken by prospectors during the Gold Rush. Other options included glacier helicopter tours and hiking part of the historic Chilkoot Trail.

Sitka: Humpback Whales, Sea Otters and a Surprise Bear Encounter

Sitka was our next port, where I’d arranged a whale-watching excursion combined with a homestead visit.

As we sailed into Sitka Sound, we were soon greeted by sea otters simply chilling in the water and then humpback whales. Watching these animals in their natural surroundings was a glorious sight.

But the biggest surprise came on our return journey.

One of our guides spotted movement along the shoreline. As we looked more closely, we realised it was a mother brown bear with her three cubs.

We were able to get a little closer from the water, but she seemed completely oblivious to our presence and simply continued on her way along the water’s edge with the cubs. We had fabulous views of them.

After already seeing sea otters and humpback whales, finding a mother bear and her three cubs really was the cherry on top of the cake.

Scenic Cruising Through Glacier Bay

One of the highlights of any Alaska cruise is surely the scenery, and our day cruising through Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve was spectacular.

The scale of the landscape is difficult to appreciate until you’re actually there. Mountains rise around you, waterfalls tumble down the rock faces and glaciers appear between the peaks as you sail deeper into the bay.

Queen Elizabeth worked particularly well for this part of the cruise. In addition to the upper decks, the forward area of Deck 5 was opened to passengers, providing much more space for everyone to find a good viewing position.

However, this was also where I was particularly grateful that I’d chosen a balcony cabin.

The public decks naturally became busy when we reached the glaciers, whereas I could return to my cabin and enjoy fantastic uninterrupted views from my own balcony.

For that reason, if somebody asked me whether a balcony is worth having on an Alaska cruise, my answer would definitely be yes. There is so much scenery to see even when you’re sailing between ports, and having your own private viewing space made a real difference.

Wrangell: A Glimpse of Old Alaska

Our next port was Wrangell, one of Alaska’s oldest towns and somewhere that felt very different from some of the larger ports we’d visited.

We simply took a stroll around town and I loved its character. In places, it felt almost like stepping back in time into one of America’s old Wild West towns.

There were totem poles dotted around the area – even in people’s gardens – and it was a lovely place to explore at our own pace.

Victoria: Orcas, Humpbacks and Race Rocks

Our final port of call was Victoria in Canada, where we’d booked another whale-watching tour.

Once again, we didn’t have to wait long.

A pod of orcas was spotted and it was magnificent watching them in their natural environment. We continued farther out and were then treated to the sight of a humpback whale surfacing from the water.

The excursion also took us past Race Rocks Ecological Reserve, where we saw huge numbers of marine animals including elephant seals, sea lions and otters.

Even at the very end of the trip, the wildlife encounters kept coming. It truly was another day to remember.

What Is Queen Elizabeth Like for an Alaska Cruise?

Having sailed with Cunard before, I had an idea of what to expect from Queen Elizabeth, and the traditional atmosphere and sense of old-world elegance were apparent throughout the ship.

There are lots of little touches that create that feeling: being greeted by a bellboy who calls the lift for you, waiters pulling out your chair and placing your napkin on your lap at dinner, and traditional afternoon tea served in the Queens Room by white-gloved waiters.

Despite that elegance, I found the atmosphere onboard very relaxed and friendly. There was a real mixture of nationalities and people from all walks of life, and I never felt that passengers staying outside the suites received a lesser experience.

My Balcony Cabin

I stayed in a forward balcony cabin, which was very spacious and comfortable.

If I were being critical, some aspects of the cabin were beginning to feel a little tired and I thought the bathroom in particular could benefit from a refit. However, I was very comfortable throughout the cruise and the balcony was a huge advantage in Alaska.

Being able to step outside and enjoy those incredible views – particularly in Glacier Bay – was something I really appreciated.

Dining and Formal Nights

The main restaurant was my favourite place to eat onboard and my standout meal was the Duck à l’Orange on one of our formal evenings. Our waiters were excellent too and really added to the experience.

We were on second sitting for dinner and I did notice that the restaurant was only around half full on many evenings. There are now so many other options onboard, including flexible dining, speciality restaurants and the buffet, that not everybody chooses traditional fixed dining.

Cunard still has formal evenings, although ours had themes including a White Night and a Masquerade Night.

If dressing up isn’t for you, I wouldn’t let that put you off sailing with Cunard. Passengers who didn’t want to participate could choose the buffet instead, while the other evenings were generally smart rather than particularly formal. The atmosphere wasn’t as rigid as some people might imagine when they think of Cunard.

My Favourite Spot: The Commodore Club

One of my favourite places onboard was the Commodore Club on Deck 10.

Located right at the front of Queen Elizabeth, it has fantastic panoramic views ahead of the ship, making it a lovely place to sit with a drink and watch the scenery.

We always managed to find a good seat when we visited and I found the service very quick.

Elsewhere, the public areas are spacious and relaxed. The theatre shows were extremely entertaining – you can even hire a private box – while there is also a traditional English-style pub and numerous smaller bars and lounges where you can listen to live and classical music.

At times, Queen Elizabeth really does make you feel as though you’ve stepped back into another era.

My Three Must-Do Alaska Excursions

If I were advising somebody taking their first Alaska cruise and they could only choose a few excursions, there are three experiences I would prioritise.

Bear watching would be one of my absolute must-dos. The excursion I took in Ketchikan was brilliant because we were watching bears living completely naturally in their own habitat. Standing on the raised platform and watching a bear fishing for salmon beneath me was something I’ll never forget.

Whale watching would be another. It’s offered from several Alaska ports, and we had fantastic experiences in both Sitka and Victoria. From humpback whales and orcas to sea otters, seals and sea lions, we saw far more wildlife than I’d expected.

Finally, I would highly recommend a helicopter flight to a glacier combined with husky sledding. I did this from Juneau and, although it was expensive compared with some of the other excursions, it was worth every single penny. The helicopter flight, the glacier and racing across the snow behind a team of huskies combined to create one of the highlights of the entire holiday.

Would I Recommend an Alaska Cruise?

Absolutely.

This really was a trip of a lifetime for me. I went to Alaska with incredibly high expectations and somehow it still managed to exceed them.

It wasn’t one single experience that made the trip special. It was watching bears catching salmon in Ketchikan, flying above glaciers in Juneau, being pulled across the snow by huskies, unexpectedly finding a mother bear and her cubs in Sitka, sailing through Glacier Bay and watching orcas and humpback whales in the wild.

Combine all of that with the comfort and elegance of Queen Elizabeth and it became a journey that will stay with me forever.

If you asked me whether I’d go back to Alaska, the answer is very simple.

I’d go back in a heartbeat