I’d always assumed I was a big-ship cruiser. After all, every cruise I’d ever taken had been onboard one of the industry’s larger vessels. Why change something that clearly worked? Then Oceania Cruises invited me onboard Sirena for seven nights from Lisbon to Southampton…and by the time we arrived home, I’d completely changed my mind.
My partner, Beth, and I sailed from a sunny Lisbon in late June. We’d arrived the previous night and stayed in a hotel close to the port to make our embarkation day as stress-free as possible. Uber was our transport of choice and I can’t recommend it highly enough. It’s considerably cheaper than a taxi and made getting to the terminal incredibly straightforward.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
From the moment we stepped out of the taxi we were warmly greeted, our bags were whisked away and we were shown to check-in. Embarkation was the quickest and smoothest I’ve ever experienced. From entering the terminal to stepping aboard took no more than 25 minutes. First positive point for small-ship cruising!
As this was my first Oceania cruise, I was excited to experience what they had to offer. We were welcomed onboard with a glass of champagne and told to register at our muster station: a swift and painless process that eliminated the need for a safety drill before sailing. Another win!
After having the obligatory “we’re on holiday!” drink at the beautiful Martinis – an English country house-style bar – we headed up to Deck 9 for some lunch. Although the Terrace Café was also open, we made a bee-line for Waves Grill by the pool: the made-to-order burgers (and the promise of lobster) proved impossible to resist. The service was fantastic and, as we’d soon discover, was consistently excellent throughout the cruise.
I opted for the Surf ’n’ Turf burger – a Wagyu beef burger topped with chunks of lobster, salad, truffle mayo in a brioche bun and served with fries – and good golly gosh, was it good. This tower of indulgence is available every day onboard, and I immediately began fantasising about eating lobster every day. By the end of the cruise I was asking for – and getting – extra lobster and, had we stayed another week, I suspect I’d have been requesting a quadruple helping. Not being a fan of seafood, Beth opted for the Waves Club sandwich – a triple decker filled with beef, ham, turkey, egg, avocado and salad, which quickly became her lunchtime staple throughout the trip.
For me, Waves Grill is one of the things that truly sets Oceania apart from other premium cruise lines I’ve sailed with. The service was always impeccable and every meal was freshly prepared. We occasionally visited Terrace Cafe to see what was on offer but, more often than not, the lure of the Waves Grill was too strong. I highly recommend visiting it on your first day onboard. Whether you’ve been travelling all day or had a relatively short journey to get to the ship, you can avoid any queues for the buffet and simply sit back and relax.
If lunch was our first indication that Oceania does things differently, dinner that evening would completely raise the bar.
THE FINEST DINING AT SEA?
There are two speciality restaurants onboard Sirena and both are complimentary. Depending on your cabin category, you’re allowed to book these from a set date before your departure. We were in an Oceanview cabin meaning we were one of the last to be able to book our specialities but availability was still good.
We decided to book a speciality restaurant for our first night onboard. This was Tuscan Steak – exclusive to Sirena with a menu that combines the best of Oceania’s traditional Polo Grill and Tuscana speciality restaurants. This gourmet hybrid of a restaurant was created by Oceania in 2016 to make space for the spectacular and hugely popular Red Ginger Asian speciality restaurant (more on that shortly).
Tuscan Steak was an exceptional experience and my personal favourite, mainly due to whole lobster being on the menu (are you noticing a theme yet?). The food and service were everything you would want from a speciality restaurant onboard a luxury liner with an atmosphere to match.
A standout moment for me was when a trolley was wheeled out with an array of olive oils and balsamic vinegars. Our assistant waiter then began to explain the characteristics of each olive oil and balsamic vinegar and which pairings went best. Beth politely (and swiftly) accepted his first recommendation, while I made the mistake of asking a follow-up question. Ten fascinating minutes later, I finally had my olive oil pairing. His enthusiasm was infectious, even if I was beginning to wonder whether breakfast would arrive before he’d finished!
The only slight mishap came with dessert. I enjoy an Espresso Martini with dessert – a holiday indulgence of mine – and so I asked our waiter, Saw, if this was possible. He said that they don’t serve them in this restaurant but it was not a problem and he would go and get me one from another bar. Desserts arrived and with it came my Espresso Martini: unfortunately, this was not the best example of the drink – light in colour and very strong (I assume heavy use of vodka led to both of these issues). However, I didn’t have the heart to tell Saw after he’d gone to so much effort, so I soldiered through as much of it as I could before staggering back to the cabin after a fantastic first day.
Red Ginger is the other speciality restaurant onboard and this was Beth’s favourite meal. An Asian-fusion restaurant with a sophisticated black and red decor that sets the tone for an elegant, contemporary dining concept. We had a beautiful table for two by the window with plenty of privacy – something I feared we’d seldom have on a smaller ship but, once again, we were pleasantly surprised.
Like Tuscan Steak, Red Ginger comes with its own little quirk: a custom chopstick selection. Three styles of chopsticks were on offer but, thankfully, the explanation was a lot shorter than the olive oil trolley in Tuscan Steak! Beth is a proficient chopstick user, whereas I am not, so I think she quite enjoyed this opportunity to show off. When it came to my turn to choose, I asked which ones were best for beginners and was handed a set which I suspect were the chopstick equivalent of a bike with stabilisers! Deciding that I would rather eat my meal before it went cold, I set them down and used cutlery that I’m more familiar with!
Chopsticks aside (literally), the food here was fantastic. The restaurant’s signature dish – Miso-Glazed Seabass – was my highlight and Beth’s Slow-Cooked Indonesian Beef Rendang was equally delicious. If you’ve never sailed with Oceania, Red Ginger alone is reason enough to book!
We did our best during our cruise to experience as many of the dining options as possible. The main dining room operates on a flexible, open-seating basis with no set dining times or assigned tables. We often opted to head there at around 8pm and never struggled to get a table – only once having to wait and, even then, only for around 10 minutes. The food here was excellent and the service was as good as in every other area of the ship.
The other main dining area was the Terrace Café: a self-service buffet with additional made-to-order options. Of an evening these offerings are themed – French, Indian, etc. – which can be a nice change, especially if the main dining room menu doesn’t appeal. When we ate here, we would sit in the outside area right at the back of the ship, which was a lovely, relaxed experience. Yes, the choice was a little more limited than you’ll find on a mega ship but that was more than compensated for by the calm, unhurried atmosphere. We never found ourselves wandering around with plates in hand looking for a table: something we’ve experienced more than once on larger ships.
LIFE ONBOARD A SMALL SHIP
One of our biggest concerns before our cruise was whether a smaller ship would mean less space. I can honestly say that the opposite was true. The ship was at near full capacity, yet we never struggled to get a bed by the pool, a seat at a bar or a table in one of the dining options. Communal spaces consistently felt spacious – even during a sea day when everyone was onboard. In fact, I experienced fewer queues and less competition for space than I have on many much larger ships.
Luxury cruising is often about the little details and, unfortunately one of Sirena’s little details is the bathroom: it is tiny! Beth coped much better than me here: at 6ft and considerably less dainty than my better half, I found it took some adjusting to. My first shower onboard saw me confuse the temperature dial with the on/off dial… and, believe me when I say, there was nowhere to run when scalding hot water came flying at me! After that, I made sure that I thoroughly studied the dial layout and never made the same mistake again.
Our Oceanview stateroom was exactly that: it had a window which provided a view of the ocean (unless we were overlooking the port when docked!). I will admit I have grown accustomed to having a balcony when cruising but these were sold out by the time we booked. On previous cruises we used our balcony frequently to avoid crowded public areas and we were concerned that we would miss having that private outdoor space: however, because Sirena never felt crowded, we really didn’t.
Our stateroom was slightly smaller than what I’ve experienced on other ships but there was plenty of storage and we never felt cramped. And, to be honest, we didn’t spend much time in there. With so much space available elsewhere on the ship, we never felt the need to escape to our suite for a bit of peace and quiet. On previous cruises, our cabin often became somewhere to retreat from the crowds. On Sirena, that simply wasn’t necessary.
THE DESTINATIONS
One of the things I loved most about this itinerary was that it was completely destination-focused. Every morning we’d pull back the curtains to a completely different view (well, almost every morning – more on that shortly!).
One of the biggest advantages of sailing on a smaller ship soon became obvious: Sirena could visit ports that simply aren’t accessible to larger cruise ships. Two examples of this on our itinerary were Saint-Malo and Concarneau in France. Saint-Malo was exactly the sort of place we’d hoped a smaller ship would allow us to visit: within minutes of stepping ashore we were wandering through the cobbled streets of this magnificent walled city rather than negotiating an industrial dock. These are exactly the sort of ports we love: where you can spend a morning exploring before heading back onboard for a well-earned Wagyu and lobster burger with a magnificent view of the city we’d just explored.
Another port we were particularly excited about was Concarneau. In truth, it wasn’t Concarneau itself that had Beth counting down the days – it was nearby Pont-Aven. Long before we left the UK, she’d already fallen in love with photos of its flower-lined bridges, whitewashed mills and granite cottages. Sadly, the weather had other ideas and strong sea conditions meant Concarneau was cancelled and replaced with an unexpected sea day. Disappointing? Absolutely: but it’s one of the realities of cruising, regardless of ship size.
The unexpected sea day also highlighted one of the trade-offs of sailing on a smaller ship. Having cruised several times before, I barely noticed the movement; Beth, however, who’d only previously sailed on a much larger vessel, felt it more. She wasn’t seasick but it did make this her least favourite day of the cruise.
On every other evening, when we were sailing between ports, the movement was noticeable but never intrusive. Would I let it put me off booking a smaller ship again? Absolutely not. But, if you’re particularly prone to motion sickness, it’s something to bear in mind.
THE SERVICE
One of the biggest differences between sailing on Sirena and the larger ships I’ve experienced wasn’t the ship itself – it was the people. By the third day, crew members were greeting us by name, bartenders remembered what we liked to drink and waiters would stop for a chat as they passed. It never felt forced or scripted – just genuinely warm and personal. If you’ve cruised before, you’ll know that getting to know the crew is one of the joys of cruising. On Sirena, the ship’s smaller size made those connections feel even more natural.
On our previous cruise – aboard a ship carrying more than 3,000 passengers – we’d often find ourselves sitting in a bar (and, no, we don’t have a drinking problem!) wondering if anyone was ever going to take our drinks order. Even when there were only a handful of occupied tables, table service could be surprisingly slow. And there’s nothing worse than sitting in a bar without a drink – now that’s a drinking problem!
The opposite was true onboard Sirena. Even when a bar was at its busiest, we wouldn’t have to wait long before someone came to take our order. In the Horizons lounge, it was usually Jess looking after us; in Martinis, Zak was never far away. In the Grand Dining Room we’d always hope to be seated in Ian’s section because he was fantastic. And those are just three names from a crew who made us feel genuinely welcome throughout the week.
More than anything else, it’s the people we miss. Great food can be found on lots of cruise ships. Beautiful destinations can be visited in countless ways. But it’s much harder to recreate the genuine warmth and familiarity that Sirena’s crew brought to every day of our trip. We left with wonderful memories of the places we’d visited: but it’s the people we’ll remember most. Thank you, Sirena.
ENTERTAINMENT & ATMOSPHERE
Coming from bigger ships I expected life onboard to feel quieter, but there was always something going on. Whether it was quizzes, table tennis tournaments or one of the many activities organised by the entertainment team, there was always something happening. Better still, taking part earned you the elusive ‘O-Points’, which could be exchanged at the end of the cruise for Oceania goodies. Sadly, a free cruise wasn’t one of them…I checked.
The evenings also had a wonderfully relaxed feel. There was no pressure to rush from one venue to the next or cram everything into a single night. Some evenings we’d enjoy live jazz piano in Martinis with a cocktail. On others, we’d wander the decks before heading to Horizons to watch the house band play more upbeat covers, where we’d either have a dance or simply watch from our table (again, usually with a cocktail). It felt sophisticated without ever feeling stuffy.
Entertainment isn’t on the same scale as you’ll find onboard a 5,000-passenger ship – and nor should it be. Sirena’s lounge is where the evening shows are held and this is a much more intimate venue than I have experienced on larger ships. I’ll confess I’m not usually one for cruise shows. Beth, however, had other ideas, and by night three I’d been successfully persuaded (dragged might be a fairer description) to see Legends – a medley celebrating some of music’s greatest artists.
Unlike the tiered seating venues I am accustomed to, the Sirena lounge is completely flat. The stage feels much closer than on larger ships, making the whole experience feel far more intimate. Thanks to my entirely irrational fear of being dragged onto the stage for an impromptu rendition of Bohemian Rhapsody, we opted for a discreet table off to one side. Fortunately, the view was still excellent and no one was dragged on stage…magnifico!
The performances themselves were every bit as polished as those I’d seen on larger ships, just in a more intimate setting. What really struck me, though, was what happened afterwards. On a bigger ship, the cast disappear backstage and you rarely see them again until the next performance. On Sirena, we’d bump into them around the ship, chatting to passengers or hosting activities during the day. It’s another reminder that the real difference with a ship like Sirena isn’t its size – it’s how connected everything feels.
WHO IS IT FOR?
After just a few days onboard, it became clear to me who Sirena is perfect for. If your ideal cruise involves lively pool games and late-night parties, you may find it a little understated. But if you value exceptional food, attentive service and a relaxed atmosphere where you can genuinely unwind, it’s difficult to fault.
I also think it’s ideal for people who enjoy exploring ashore as much as they enjoy life onboard. Sirena isn’t about squeezing every possible attraction onto the ship itself. Instead, it’s about taking you to fascinating destinations, offering exceptional food and service when you return, and letting you enjoy the journey at a gentler pace.
One thing I would say is that Sirena probably isn’t aimed at young families. There were very few children onboard and, with no obvious kids’ club or water attractions, I suspect younger children and teenagers may find themselves running out of things to do. That’s not a criticism – it’s simply not the type of holiday Oceania is trying to offer here.
When I boarded in Lisbon, I expected this cruise to confirm that larger ships were still my preference. Instead, it challenged almost every assumption I’d made about small-ship cruising. Would I still sail on a larger ship? Absolutely. They offer experiences that simply aren’t possible on a vessel like Sirena. But would I actively seek out another small luxury ship? Without hesitation.
I boarded Sirena curious about small-ship cruising.
I left wondering why I’d waited so long to try it.
Thinking about trying Oceania Cruises? Our Cruise Specialists have been onboard and would be delighted to help you find the right itinerary.
